Excerpt:

Nouari Benzawi is trying to figure out how to make his kebab shop more Spanish.

Benzawi, 52, immigrated to Spain from Algeria two decades ago. He's married to a Spaniard and holds dual nationality. Seven years ago, he and his wife opened the kebab shop and halal grocery store in this breezy, palm tree-lined provincial capital of 135,000 on Spain's Mediterranean coast.

"My tomatoes are Spanish, and so are the potatoes I sell," Benzawi said one recent evening, yanking a corrugated metal curtain down over his storefront to close up for the night. "Please explain this to me!" he implored. "Do I need to sell pork to be a 'traditional Spanish business'? Do I need to sell wine?"


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